Sorry we went AWOL there for a while, but we've discovered that internet access is definitely not a given in this part of the world, and we haven't had it at the places where we've stayed for the last three nights. On one hand that's a delightful relief, especially at the end of an exhausting day when all we want to do is eat and fall in to bed. On the other hand we want to keep you all posted and each internetless(?) day was a bit frustrating on that count. Let me catch you up on the events of days three and four (Which I had written before I discovered we had no internet access!)
Day Three – A day of Challenges
The walk (that’s what they call it here – no hikes thank you very much!) from Ennerdale to Stonethwaite village was a real test for us. I had been hoping to start the day with a stiff climb up on to Red Pike and then walk along the high ridgeline for three or four miles (‘the high route’) before meeting Jo and Vidya where their trail would intersect with mine. However the weather was pretty lousy in the morning, so I opted out of the high route, which according to the hostel manager at Ennerdale required a working knowledge of map and compass navigation in this kind of weather. I wasn’t that confident of my orienteering skills, and tales abound of people wandering around lost for hours up on the high fells in misty weather. It was also windy, so I imagined that up ‘on top’ as they say, what looked like mist from down here would actually be driving rain up there. Didn’t seem like it would be much fun!
The low route took us along the Ennerdale valley floor to the Black Sail youth hostel – the most remote hostel in the UK, where we stopped for a cup of tea – before pitching us up the bottom of the almost vertical climb up the aptly named Loft Beck. I think it must have been close to 1000ft of stair-climbing before we poked our heads over the rise in to the clouds (thick mist) on the fell top. It was our most severe climbing challenge so far, and although it was definitely arduous we took it in stride!
On top conditions were pretty rough for a June day (I’m sure they can be far worse in winter) – the wind was howling and the mist was thick enough that at times we couldn’t see 50 yards, which made it tricky to pick out the cairns which fortunately marked our route. The air temperature was probably about 50F, but with the wind chill it felt more like 35F. Out came the fleeces and the rain jackets, and even, after a while, the gloves! We walked through the clouds for about 45 minutes, following a line of cairns and the instructions in our guide book very carefully before the path turned downhill on an abandoned slate mining tramway. After that things eased up and we wound up at our destination in Stonethwaite in Borrowdale at about 5.30pm, tired but happy. We had overcome our first really challenging set of conditions, and suddenly felt confident that we could handle this business!
I’m happy to report that I enjoyed two pints of excellent, local, prize winning Black Sheep Bitter’ before dinner, and rarely was beer so well earned! As good English beer is, it was served at cellar temperature (rather than chilled), which makes it that much easier to drink, and the rich smell and flavor that comes with that relative warmth gives the sense that one is drinking a fresh live beer rather than a sterile one. It’s more like drinking an organic liquid food than a characterless chemical concoction, which is how chilled beers sometimes taste to me. (sorry America!)
Day Four – Stonethwaite to Grasmere: In the lap of the gods!
A day spent wandering the grassy pathways of heaven! After a strenuous climb out of the Borrowdale valley where Stonethwaite lies, we arrived at the peak of the spectacular Lining Crag which offered a wonderful view back down the valley, and of a ‘basin of drumlins’ which we had crossed to get there. (I’ll let you figure that oneout!) We then crossed a boggy plateau in chilly winds to arrive at Greenup Edge which, when the mist parted for long enough, allowed us some peeks of the promise of the Grasmere valley below.
The weather was improving as we sat and ate lunch enjoying the view. We then set off along the ridgeline toward the distant peaks of Gibson Knott and Helm Crag, which towers over Grasmere – our destination for the day. Wainwright, who created the Coast-to-Coast walk said "the best part of walking is fell walking, and the best part of fell-walking is ridge walking". This must be one of the most glorious of all ridge-walks, extending for a couple of miles with small rises to peaks with astonishing 360 degree views, valleys falling dramatically away on both sides, and the ceaseless movement of clouds creating an endlessly unfolding drama of light and shade on a gigantic canvas of mountains, valleys and tarns (small mountain lakes). I had to stop about every thirty seconds to take photographs! It was one of those walks where I found myself wondering "how did I get to be so lucky as to be doing this?"
Looking down in to lush, stone-walled farmland of the valley on the Grasmere side of the ridge was like looking down on ‘The Shire’ of Hobbits, and gave us the feeling of being on a Tolkeinian quest.
After sitting a while on Helm Crag to take in the view and recharge on Cadbury’s chocolate, we headed down the steep trail – sorry, I mean path (they don’t have ‘trails’ here!) in to Grasmere, getting lost briefly at the bottom (the last time you want to get lost of course – when you’re most tired!) where we met up with our fourth team member Imo, who had just arrived from Seattle by way of London. Celebratory drinks were in order of course and local beers were to be had, as everywhere in the north of England. Sorry,but it’s too late to get in to beery details right now! Bed time!
